I’ve been suffering from light primer strikes recently shooting my reloaded ammo using Wolf primers through my 625 JM. This is a very widely known issue with the revolvers and most of the competition revolver shooters today suggest that I use Federal Primers instead of others because Federal makes very “soft” primers which are very revolver friendly. Using properly seated Federal primers, some gunsmiths will be able to reduce the Double Action trigger pull from 11lbs to 5-6lbs. A HUGE difference in double action smoothness and speed. One day I’ll get that done for my 625 but for now, I’ll settle with using the Cylinder & Slide Extra Length firing pin.
This will aid me in getting a solid strike on the primer. I’ll try this out with my existing Wolf ammo to see any difference. Once my Federal primers arrive, I’ll reload special ammo using Federal primers for the revolver.
Here’s my revolver disassembled and ready to swap the firing pin :
took me a while to figure out where to put the trigger safety bar when I reassembled it back together again. It’s useless, but because I shoot IDPA, I have to keep it in the gun.
Here’s a good comparison between the stock firing pin (above) and the C&S Extra Length firing pin (bottom) :
and here to simulate actual hammer contact, the original firing pin :
and the Extra Length one :
As you can see, although it’s just a tad longer, it should make a difference. It’s also REQUIRED that you use SnapCaps during Dry fire. I still cannot figure out why but I guess because the extra length’s firing pin “channel” (where the small pin holds it in place) is longer, letting the hammer drop on it without a SnapCap will cause either i) the back part of the firing pin to slam into the retaining pin, or ii) the front of the firing pin slamming into the frame.
The sound is also very different because now the firing pin hits the SnapCap and “rebounds” a little. How well will this perform? i don’t have a clue until I go to the range to fire off a few rounds. I’ll keep everyone posted.