Ever since I’ve switched to using a Dillon XL 650 reloader, I’ve been frustrated with the design of the primer system. Unlike the Dillon 550B, primers that you don’t use, get tossed out by the reloader, forcing you to pick them up and put them back in the primer feed system manually. The Dillon 550b will keep the primers in the primer tubes even when you’re not using them, which makes for a cleaner solution.
On top of that problem, the missed LIVE primers fall down a chute into a super small tray, which probably holds 3-4 primers before the others start to launch off onto your floor or behind a nook.
Steve Thorne has built a more secure chute system that catches all the live primers in a small bottle. You can find this chute upgrade on Ebay : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=271215943809
Here’s how the ugly 650 XL tray looks. All you do is to remove the retaining screws and remove the entire ramp.
Here’s how the new system fits.
Lock it down with one screw and attach the plastic “bottle” that’s provided.
and voila! no more dropped live primers.
Getting closer to finally being able to reload 38 Super Comp. Two things arrived today from Dillon Precision.
.380ACP Conversion Kit for the #3 Shellplate which is designed for the 38 Super Comp smaller rim.
and the 38 Super Case Gauge to make sure the reloads are properly made so I can ensure that each round will chamber. Sometimes bulging cases or cracked ones will creep into my reloading batch and with the case gauge, I can identify them.
Gonna head over to Kesselrings to pickup some Montana Gold 115gr and 124gr CMJs.
Thanks to my lovely wife, I got some 9mm reloading stuff for Christmas and just found some time to setup my Dillon 9mm dies, toolhead assembly and configure them to reload 9mm.
I did have a question to anyone who’s reading this who has experience reloading 9mm, here’s a pic of the finished product, OAL is 1.125 (as suggested by Hodgdon). Why is there a dip (or taper) in the middle of the ammo? Is that normal?
The diameter at the rear of the case is 0.388, the middle is 0.376 and the neck is 0.377-0.378.
Am I doing something wrong?
From various friends and forums, the Coca-Cola bottle / Hourglass shape of the 9mm round is normal, the case isn’t straight walled like a .40S&W or a .45 ACP. The round above though doesn’t have enough crimp. I’ve added more crimp and taken another picture to compare :
The neck is now .375-.376. Looks much better. That said, when I pulled the bullet, the crimp leaves a mark. I’m not sure if this is good or not.
I’ve bought the .40S&W conversion kit for my Dillon 550B reloader but haven’t got the time to configure it until today. Had some free time and decided to get my ass off the chair and do something about it. I don’t have all the components yet to complete my reloading but enough to configure my Dillon toolhead and dies.
all I need is Hodgdon Titegroup and some Small Pistol Primers.
I have a 9mm conversion kit, dies and Dillon Quick Change Kit coming so I can reload 9mm too. can’t wait!
Everyone knows that reloading is a very rewarding experience. Especially having the ability to pick the kinds of ammo you wish to create, you also do it relatively cheaply, more than 1/4 of the price of the cheapest factory ammo you’d buy in retail.
While rewarding, it doesn’t come without any risks. One of the biggest problems with reloading is with the user. Humans are not good at repetitive actions, we tend to get used to the repetition and lose our concentration. That can lead to disastrous problems with the ammo you’re reloading, especially if you double charge your load.
This problem can be negated by checking every load for the right amount of powder, and the best way to do it is to physically look into the case for the right amount of charge. This can be a little difficult depending on the kind of lighting conditions you’d have around your reloading workstation.
Here’s a cheap LED flashlight I bought from True Value hardware, called Coast LED Lenser. I think I bought this for $4.99. You can find one on Ebay here : http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Coast-Logo-Lenser-FLASHLIGHT-LED-KEYCHAIN-/190472302121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5908ae29
This LED Flashlight is the right size to be slipped into the Dillon RL 550 toolhead.
The light is held in place, without falling through, by the activation switch. It sits in the perfect depth that it doesn’t impinge the function of the shellplate during reloading and providing enough illumination to look into your brass cases.
Perfect! Go get one!
Chrono-ed my new rounds that I made with my new 550B today after the match. Although my Chrony was not working, a fellow shooter Scott loaned me his and I managed to chrono 5 different types of powder weights. here’s the table :
all these were Bear Creek 200gr bullets, Wolf Primer & Hodgdon Clays powder.
So in order for me to make the Major Power Factor (165+) I’m going with 4.5 grains of powder. 4.2 is pretty inconsistent so I’ll stick with 4.5. Time to get to reloading those thousands of rounds I have.
Came across a good deal for a Dillon 550b reloader and placed the order right away. I’ve been thinking about reloading ammo for a while now and been tumbling some brass that I bought on the cheap and figured I might as well give it a go. It would save me money in the long run (I don’t shoot that often) and give me the pleasure or working on something when I can’t go out shooting.
Will post pics and video of the setup when it gets delivered sometime next week.