Looks like it’s time for stuff to start breaking down. I’ve been shooting over two years with the same gear, maybe only around 7,000-8,000 rounds total without any issues until recently. You’ve seen my problems with the cracked grip (due to loading 29rounds in my magazine) and a cracked c-more scope mount (material taken off from the mount). Most recently during the Paul Bunyan match where Arrun and I switched guns, the c-more dot kept turning off during the match. I discovered that the pin for the dot module had broken off.
As you can see from the image, the pin remained in the c-more base. We didn’t have any tools to remove it at the range so we tried to maintain the electrical connection by using a small piece of metal from a paper clip, that didn’t work.
Dennis, who’s a resourceful tinkerer and home gunsmith suggested we use a more robust and reliable fix using aluminum foil as it’s more “flexible” so during recoil, the aluminum foil can still flex and maintain connectivity, unlike a hard paper clip.
We also added some foil to the hood of the c-more dot cover to hold the module down to maintain the connection to the foil.
This solution worked out well and Arrun was able to finish the final two stages without any problems from the dot.
Looks like I have to find a new replacement dot module, or better yet, find a replacement c-more sight. I’m holding out for a chance at one of the cool new prototype sights that a local shooter has developed but am still unsure how long it would take to get it. For now, I’ve replaced the dot module with a new 8-MOA dot. Hope this will last me for a few more matches.
I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about the safety of the release mechanism of the Serpa holster and I agree. I’ve used it a few times in IDPA matches and it’s either
- very hard to engage the switch or
- when I do it under stress I find my trigger finger in the trigger guard when it releases.
In this video, I discuss the benefits of this holster, the problems and a suggested fix or modification that Blackhawk could do to this good holster to make it great.
What do you think?
*Update: Here’s a video of me doing the Serpa Double/Triple Pump *
Watch time index 1:15 and 1:45
Saw this video on Youtube posted by Brandon about the default trigger pull weight of a Gen4 versus a Gen3. He also talks about the possibility that this “could” be the cause of issues with the Gen4. What do you think?
I’ve been having problems with my Kimber’s magazine release for a long time now. Sometimes, the magazine never ejects completely and does not fall freely. This problem is hard to troubleshoot because it happens only occasionally. It’s frustrating when it happens during a match because that can cause me up to a second during reloads. Thanks to a brilliant & fellow shooter, Emanuel, he recommended that I take a look at my mag release, namely the left part of it. Sometimes, if you press really hard (not hard to do while shooting a match because of adrenaline), the left part of the magazine release protrudes out of the frame of the magwell and holding the magazine up.
Here’s a pic of the magwell at rest :
and if I press it really hard :
The fix? dremel around 1mm of metal off from the left side of the mag release, and test it in the gun for fit. Once it fits, polish it so there won’t be any hangups.
Bought the excellent Blackhawk Serpa Concealment holster for use with my Kimber in IDPA. After shooting it for one match and doing some draw drills, I find that I can’t disengage the locking mechanism consistently. I usually keep my trigger finger WAY off from the holster when I draw, and in order to disengage the lock on the Serpa, I have to force myself to touch the holster with my trigger finger.
During practice, I find myself either not able to unlock it 10% of the time OR I find my trigger finger inside the trigger guard before I present my gun properly. This can be a safety issue. Under stress, I might accidentally discharge the gun while drawing, which is a BIG no no!
I gave up after an hour. Had to do something to fix this holster without permanently damaging it. Here’s the cheapest most simple way of doing it. Take some masking tape, fold it till you get a small 1cmx1.5cm rectangle. Wrap it with some kind of electrician’s tape or any rubbery tape so it won’t slip off.
Insert it under the locking mechanism like so…
and voila!! Stays put and easy to remove when you need to engage the lock.