Here’s a really long video of me assembling a 300 Blackout AR-15 Pistol from scratch.
Here’s the full parts list:
– STI Upper+Lower
– KAK 8″ 300 BLK Barrel
– KAK Gen 2 Buffer Tube+buffer+spring
– KAK Grip+triggerguard+forward assist+dust cover+charging handle+muzzle device+gas system
– BCM Bolt Carrier Group
– DPMS LPK
– Magpul BAD Lever
– Magpul ASAP
– YHM Takedown Pins
– UTG Pro Superslim 9″ handguard
– SB15 Pistol Brace
– Primary Arms Red Dot + Fortis mount
After the Area 1 Championships in Eastern Washington, I discovered a small crack on the plastic SVI grip of my Open Gun. This is from loading to 29 rounds in my 170mm magazines and shoving it into a gun with one round in the chamber. This repeated stress led to this infamous crack in the grip right at the mag release button.
Luckily my gunsmith JPL (http://www.jplprecision.com) has a stock STI plastic grip. Took it home and made the necessary modifications to the magwell to remove excess plastic and make the funnel smooth…
Also took the opportunity to cut two finger grooves under the trigger guard to get a higher purchase on the gun and smoothen out the edges just above the mag release button hole. This is so that my fingers won’t be bruised by a sharp edge.
There we go, all done and back together again.
When I took apart my Ruger 10/22 Takedown that I showed in the last post, and looked at the internals, not only were they filthy, the bolt and receiver was not polished and had a very rough metal finish.
So I took my polishing stone to the bolt, firing pin and receiver to make them shiny and smooth. Seen here, the bolt on an india stone.
forgot to take pics of the polished receiver but here are the bolt and firing pin.
Should make the action much smoother now.
A friend of mine just picked up a new Smith and Wesson M&P 45 recently for a good price. I suggested to change the sights and improve the trigger with the Duty/Carry Action Enhancement Kit (DCAEK) & Ultimate Striker Block (USB) Kits from Apex Tactical and go to work to help out with my mediocre gunsmithing kung-fu.
here’s what’s in the kit :
The standard trigger is HORRENDOUS. I can’t imagine Smith and Wesson selling a product with such a crappy trigger, when the fix is so simple. If you look at the kits that Apex Tactical sells, those are just replacement parts which Smith and Wesson can just make on their own.
At 7.5lbs and trigger pull is super gritty. It feels like you’re dragging a small rock wrapped in sandpaper as you pull the trigger back, before having to exert so much pressure to release the sear. My double action revolver has a smoother action than this! IMHO of the three popular plastic guns, the XDm ranks highest in terms of trigger feel in a stock gun, Glock next and the M&P at a distant third.
So first things first, install the Ultimate Striker Block, which makes the trigger pull a lot smoother because it replaces the stock striker block plunger with one that’s nicely beveled and polished. This modification alone makes the trigger pull smooth.
In order to add this part, you’d have to remove the rear sight, so I took the opportunity to replace the stock white dot rear sights with a Warren Tactical black rear sight.
I didn’t take many pictures of the process but here’s the result :
VERY smooth trigger pull, shorter reset, and crisp 5.25lb break. nice! can’t wait to take it to the range.
Here’s how it looks, beautiful! Wish I had one.
Always wanted to put on a thumb rest on my SV Open gun to see if it works well at keeping the muzzle down during recoil. If you remember, I tried to get one from Gas Pedal but got pissed off at their lame customer service.
I also didn’t want to waste money investing in an expensive thumbrest just to experiment with, so I went with the Arredondo Plastic Thumbrest.
During test fit, I realized that these parts aren’t drop-in like most other types of guns. As you can see from this pic, the back part of the thumb rest is long and stops at the slide stop. That means I’d have to take out the thumbrest just to field strip the gun for cleaning. So I have to cut that off. I also cut off the front portion of the thumbrest already just to sit flush with the C-more Serendipity sight.
After cutting and filing the thumb rest flush, now it looks like it’s part of the gun (ok my dremel kungfu is still lame)
The other thing is the two screws that came with the mount is longer than usual, so I had to cut and file it short so that it doesn’t poke out of the insides of the frame and catch on the recoil guide rod or spring.
Once everything is proper and fitted, time for some BLUE Loctite so that the screws will stay in place and not run out during recoil.
All done! It looks good…
Only problem I found.. that was really disappointing was, this
The gun is not stable. It tilts BACK instead of forward. I guess the thumb rest is not far back enough to make it tilt forward and raising the back. Not it’s a little harder to grab the gun.
I also tried holstering this in my Safariland 013 holster and guess what, it doesn’t fit! it gets in the way.
So off it comes.
I broke my SDM Front Sight fiber rod when I dropped my gun at the recent Area 1 Championships. Ordered some replacement fiber rods from SDM and they came in today.
The green one looks much brighter, but I’m used to the red, so I went with it. Insert the rod all the way into the “crimped” portion of the SDM sight :
Trim it off with a sharp knife, make sure the cut is straight. A suggested way to cut it is with a sharp nail clipper.
Then use a lighter to melt the tip. The amount of fiber sticking out determines how large the melted portion will be.
After that, for good measure, I put a very small dab of Loctite at the end of the fiber and behind the melted portion to make sure the fiber stays on the sight.
There, back to normal. Sweet! I got my baby back.
Got this in the mail yesterday and have been watching this for the past two days, what an excellent series. Lenny Magill makes the corniest but most informative collection of shooting videos I’ve seen. Definitely not Magpul Dynamics quality, but just good ol’ info.
You can buy them cheap from http://www.gunvideo.com
I’ve been suffering from light primer strikes recently shooting my reloaded ammo using Wolf primers through my 625 JM. This is a very widely known issue with the revolvers and most of the competition revolver shooters today suggest that I use Federal Primers instead of others because Federal makes very “soft” primers which are very revolver friendly. Using properly seated Federal primers, some gunsmiths will be able to reduce the Double Action trigger pull from 11lbs to 5-6lbs. A HUGE difference in double action smoothness and speed. One day I’ll get that done for my 625 but for now, I’ll settle with using the Cylinder & Slide Extra Length firing pin.
This will aid me in getting a solid strike on the primer. I’ll try this out with my existing Wolf ammo to see any difference. Once my Federal primers arrive, I’ll reload special ammo using Federal primers for the revolver.
Here’s my revolver disassembled and ready to swap the firing pin :
took me a while to figure out where to put the trigger safety bar when I reassembled it back together again. It’s useless, but because I shoot IDPA, I have to keep it in the gun.
Here’s a good comparison between the stock firing pin (above) and the C&S Extra Length firing pin (bottom) :
and here to simulate actual hammer contact, the original firing pin :
and the Extra Length one :
As you can see, although it’s just a tad longer, it should make a difference. It’s also REQUIRED that you use SnapCaps during Dry fire. I still cannot figure out why but I guess because the extra length’s firing pin “channel” (where the small pin holds it in place) is longer, letting the hammer drop on it without a SnapCap will cause either i) the back part of the firing pin to slam into the retaining pin, or ii) the front of the firing pin slamming into the frame.
The sound is also very different because now the firing pin hits the SnapCap and “rebounds” a little. How well will this perform? i don’t have a clue until I go to the range to fire off a few rounds. I’ll keep everyone posted.
I’m not sure why but I LOVE watching these videos. How to breakdown a complete pistol and reassemble them together again. I’m such a geek.
Just got this in and went ahead to swap out the stock XDm sights with the new all black and very popular Warren Tactical Sevigny rear sights.
The stock rear sights is really hard to remove. I had to use my heavy duty brass punch to knock it out of place. After 5 minutes of tapping and banging, a clear dove tail 🙂
Knock the new sights in place with a non-marring polymer punch and glue it down with a little Red Thread Locker.
and finally, after carefully aligning the sights. Great sight picture eh?
can’t wait to give it a spin this weekend at the Renton USPSA match.