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Having shot my Open gun for a few months, I still have no idea what the dot size is on the C-more dot. I’ve heard anywhere from 6MOA to 8MOA. According to C-more’s website, they have dot sizes ranging from 2MOA to 16MOA.

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Not only do I not know what size the dot on my gun is, I believe it’s pretty old. The last match I shot, I couldn’t even see the dot in bright sunlight at maximum setting. So I bought a 4MOA diode module from someone on the forums and got to trying it out.

First, to find out what dot size it’s in my C-more :

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According to this chart, the dot that I have is 8MOA.

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Here’s how it looks like from my vantage point :

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After installing the 4MOA dot module :

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Frankly, the two dots look the same to me. The new module looks much like a 8MOA to me and is MUCH brighter so I stuck with it instead of my old module.

Looks pretty much like the previous 013 holster they have except that it’s cut down and looking more modern. Can’t wait to see more details about this holster but I hope they have relieved the left side of the holster so I can install a thumbrest. The current 013 holster’s left shield is too high and gets in the way of it.

Here the 014 in Racing Red :

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Just saw this video courtesy of FateOfDestinee that Kimber just announced a custom concealed carry gun at Shot Show 2012. It’ has a special blue slide with engraving and comes in the Ultra length (3” barrel, Officer sized frame) 1911. I carry a Ultra CDP Elite II but this one looks sexier!

 

Can’t wait to see more pics of it.

*UPDATE* Some pics from here :http://ezine.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=120

First match in 2012. It’s been a while since I shot a match, so trigger finger is still freezing up. Overall, was fun!

Just bought a slightly used DCAEK from a forum member and got to installing it today. Took me over an hour to get everything cleaned up, installed and reassembled. The hardest part is installing the USB (Ultimate Striker Block) which requires the removal of the rear sight.

Here’s the kit all laid out and ready to go :

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Initial trigger pull weight is 5.5lbs

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In the middle of the installation :

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After installing, cleaning and polishing a little, here’s the new trigger weight:

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Not only did it reduce the trigger weight a little, it smoothened out the entire action and lights up the reset. Now it feels like a smooth DA trigger pull, light break and noticeable reset. Not as much as a RAM (Reset Assist Mechanism) would, but good enough.

Now off to the range to test it out.

Just noticed a very small detail that was added to the M&P that you don’t typically see in a pistol and definitely not in a polymer one. They’ve added a slight crown to the barrel which is widely known to improve accuracy. Here’s a description of what a barrel crown is and it’s purpose :

The primary purpose of a firearm muzzle crown is to provide propellant gases a resistance free path away from all parts of the projectile as it exits the bore of the barrel. The secondary purpose is to protect the bore from damage caused by misuse. The third purpose is for good looks which is always achieved when the primary purpose is satisfied.

 

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Good Job Smith and Wesson! I’m liking this gun more and more.

Been wanting to be part of the cool-kids tacticool community by moving away from the Glock to the S&W M&P series of polymer pistols. Lots of great feedback about the gun, seen it being used in both IDPA and USPSA a ton. Also worked on a few guns for friends but never found a good deal until recently.

Picked up an almost new S&W M&P 9mm Fullsize (not the pro) with the box and 3 magazines. The grip is one of the best in the market, it’s extremely ergonomic unlike the other plastic fantastic guns (maybe except for the XD and the HK P30)

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It also came with TruGlo Tritium Green/Yellow sights installed which I think are fabulous for self defense use.

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Don’t think I’ll be shooting this in competition anytime soon, will still to my revolver and Open gun for the next season. The M&P comes with a less than desirable trigger as I’ve mentioned in the past blog post so a few upgrades are in store.

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Here’s what I still need to get :

  1. APEX Tactical DCAEK (Carry Kit Trigger upgrade)
  2. Kydex Holster for M&P with TLR-1
  3. Crossbreed IWB Holster for carry
  4. Two Mag pouches

My kitchen is a mess. More specifically the appliances. The stovetop has crusts all over the surface, kitchen cabinets with oil stains from all the frying, and the eyesore of all, the microwave. Situated right above the stove top. It’s all grimy with years of uncleaned oil and what not.

I’ve been struggling to find a solution to this mess other than buying new kitchen appliances.

Every respectable gun-owner knows that Hoppe’s is the universal cleaner. It’s the magical solvent that melts through carbon, grime and lots of unwanted stuff, yet is able to keep important surfaces, like polymer & wood, untouched.

So tonight, I put that to the test once again. On my Microwave oven!

here’s how the front looks like, the sticky oil residue. So hard to scrub away with traditional cleaners. Trust me, I tried.

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The bottom part of the door again showing all the yuck:

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so I applied the Hoppe’s using my cotton patches (of course), and scrubbed it with a sponge scrubber :

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and wiped it with a dry Bounty towel. Here it is, all clean! Just like magic! and it only took less than 3 minutes:

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and the shiny front door :

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The oil and grime came off as quick as carbon residue from my guns. MIRACULOUS!

Oh Hoppe’s #9. You are my savior and I’ll never doubt your abilities ever again.

Look at how clean it is now! LNIB!!

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The best part, my kitchen now smells of Hoppe’s!! SWEET!

So to fund the silencer for my new Ruger 22/45 that I purchased recently, I had to sell my Kimber Eclipse Pro II. Tried selling it online and after a few days, took a little negotiation and lots of back-and-forth with multiple prospects, I landed on a trader who would give me part cash and a gun with accessories.

The gun he wanted to trade was a Glock 29 in 10mm, DeSantis OWB holster, with 4 mags, Pearce magazine extensions and 100+ rounds of ammo. I thought, since I’ve never had a chance to own the caliber of the gods (10mm), I decided to take the offer.

Here’s the gun:

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You can imagine a small gun like that shooting full powered 10mm rounds isn’t going to be a very good feeling. That said, it would make an awesome defensive pistol. I never got to shoot it though, I cleaned the gun and quickly listed it back up on our local gun forums. Within a few hours, it was sold.

The buyer offered to trade for a LNIB (Like-New-In-Box) Glock 17 Gen 4 with a Lone Wolf threaded barrel. Since it’s sort of a fair trade, and I would rather have a newer Glock 17 with a threaded barrel instead of a gun that I might not shoot, I accepted.

Here it is all detail stripped and ready for cleaning :

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After cleaning and lube :

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Now do I keep this or sell it? hrmmm maybe I could use a suppressed 9mm platform. Smile

Boredom can be a very dangerous thing, especially when you are into firearms. You start pulling out your toys and think about all the things you’d want to do with it. Modify the sights, lighten the trigger pull and polishing the stainless.

For me, I got hit by the red-neck virus. I’ve always loved a highly polished stainless revolver and since I had time and I had one revolver that I wasn’t shooting this coming season, decided to take a sandpaper, some polishing compound and lots of elbow grease.

here’s the S&W 625 JM before doing anything to it :

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First day I started using 600 grit sandpaper and using my fingers, started working on the cylinder. Here’s how it looked like after two hours of hard work.

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Then I couldn’t help it but to work on the sideplate, just to see how nice it would look like :

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Not too bad but definitely needs more work. By this point, my thumb and shoulders were all bruised up and tired. so I called it a night and stopped.

Next day visiting my buddy Dave’s home, found out he had a polishing/buffing wheel and brought me out to see if it’ll work.

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of course it will!! this will save me a ton of time. I quickly rushed home and brought my half done revolver over. This is what it looks like after 5minutes!!

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Definitely much faster and so much more efficient. It covers all the large rounded areas very well, but the smaller tighter spaces I’d have to use my fingers and do it manually. So after about an hour on the buffing wheel and then some manual work on the trigger, hammer and cylinder release latch. All done. Now to relube, reassemble and retune the trigger pull.

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Here’s the finished product :

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And the reflection.. ahhhhhhh..

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what do you think?

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